Once in a generation — or more precisely, once in a century — the Moon steps between the Earth and the Sun, and for a few breathless minutes, the ordinary world dissolves into something ancient and humbling. On Wednesday, Spain became the stage for this celestial drama, as a total solar eclipse swept across the Iberian peninsula for the first time in over a hundred years, moving at thousands of kilometers per hour yet arriving, for those who witnessed it, as a kind of stillness. From the Arctic to the Mediterranean, hundreds of thousands of people paused their lives to look upward, reminded th