Pope Leo XIV's France visit stirs 'Pope fever' amid secular traditions

Dialogue does not mean approval. Being received does not mean giving up our demands.
Survivors of abuse in the French Catholic Church state their position ahead of meeting Pope Leo XIV in Lourdes.
Mark

Why does a pope visit matter so much in a country that deliberately separated church and state over a century ago?

Mimi

Because Leo has become a figure of moral authority that transcends religion. His conflicts with Trump, his willingness to challenge power—these things give him standing even among people who don't believe. He's not just a religious leader; he's a voice people listen to.

Luke

But we should be careful here. The article says his popularity extends beyond Catholics, but it doesn't actually measure that. We know a million people are expected, but we don't know how many of them are believers versus people coming for other reasons.

Mark

What's the political tension about? Why would the French left and right both have problems with this?

Mimi

The left worries about the state getting too involved in organizing a religious event—it feels like a violation of the secular principle. The far right welcomes Catholicism being visible but objects to the interfaith meeting in Metz because they see Islam as a threat to Christian Europe.

Luke

And the president can't even attend the public masses because of the constitutional separation. That's a real constraint, not just symbolic.

Mark

What does the Metz speech actually represent?

Mimi

It's Leo's chance to articulate a vision of Europe that holds together across nationalism and division. Metz itself is symbolic—it's been German and French at different times. Robert Schuman, who the convention center is named after, was a bridge-builder after World War II. Leo is invoking that legacy.

Luke

But we don't know yet what he'll actually say. The article tells us the title and the symbolism, but Leo's actual position on populism, on nationalist Catholicism in France—that's still to come. We're reading the setup, not the outcome.

Mark

What about the abuse survivors meeting?

Mimi

It's a real shift. Benedict didn't meet with survivors at all. Now Leo is meeting with seven, and five are making their names public. The survivors are being very clear: meeting with the pope doesn't mean they're satisfied or giving up their demands.

Luke

That's important context. The article notes that in the past, access to the Vatican sometimes seemed to come with an expectation of silence. Now survivors are speaking out before and after. But the article doesn't tell us what specific demands the survivors have or what they expect from this meeting.

  • Over 600,000 ticketed attendees will line the Champs-Élysées for an open-air mass, forcing metro closures and a security mobilization unprecedented for a religious event in modern France.
  • Leo's willingness to challenge Donald Trump has given him moral credibility far beyond the Catholic faithful, turning a papal visit into a cultural event that secular France cannot easily ignore.
  • The proximity to France's presidential election has set off political tremors across the spectrum — the left fears a blurring of church-state lines, the far right objects to an interfaith meeting in Metz, and the president himself is constitutionally barred from attending the public masses.
  • In Lourdes, Leo will meet with seven survivors of clerical sexual abuse — a deliberate departure from Benedict XVI's 2008 refusal — though survivors have made clear that being received is not the same as being heard.
  • His closing speech in Metz, delivered at a hall named for European founding father Robert Schuman, will test whether the pope can offer a credible vision of unity against the rising tide of nationalist Catholicism and populism on the continent.

In a nation that enshrined the separation of church and state more than a century ago, Pope Leo XIV arrives in France for four days that will carry him from Paris to Lourdes to Metz — drawing crowds expected to surpass one million. His authority, forged as much in political confrontation as in theology, has made him a figure of moral gravity for believers and secular Europeans alike. The visit arrives six months before a presidential election, in a continent where Catholicism has receded dramatically even as questions of identity, unity, and belonging have grown louder, and his final address in Metz may reveal whether the Church still has something to say to a Europe searching for its own roots.

France is in the grip of what observers are calling "Pope fever" — a phenomenon that would have seemed improbable in a country whose modern identity rests on secular foundations laid in 1905. Over four days, Pope Leo XIV will move through Paris, Lourdes, and Metz to crowds expected to exceed one million, a turnout that reflects something more complicated than religious devotion alone.

The scale is striking. Around 600,000 ticketed attendees will gather along the Champs-Élysées for an open-air mass at the Place de la Concorde, with metro stations closing and papal portraits draped across churches throughout the city. Political scientist Olivier Roy explains the paradox: Leo has built a moral authority that extends well beyond the Catholic faithful, in large part through his public conflicts with Donald Trump. He occupies a middle ground between John Paul II's Eurocentrism and Francis's Global South orientation — affirming the Church's universality while acknowledging Europe's continued weight within it.

The timing sharpens the political stakes. With France's presidential election six months away, the state's visible role in organizing the papal reception has unsettled both left and right. The left worries about the erosion of church-state boundaries; the far right objects to an interfaith meeting planned in Metz, which they see as elevating Islam alongside Christianity. France's president, bound by constitutional constraints, cannot attend the large public masses — a detail that quietly captures how much remains unresolved in France's relationship with religion.

The choice of Metz for Leo's final address is deliberate. The city, which has passed between French and German hands across centuries, will host the pope at the Robert Schuman Convention Center — named for the statesman who championed Franco-German reconciliation and became the first president of the European Parliament. Leo's speech, titled "To the roots of Europe for peace and unity," will be introduced by President Macron and is expected to confront nationalism and populism directly, including the rise of nationalist Catholicism within France itself.

In Lourdes, the Church's unresolved reckoning with clerical sexual abuse will also be on display. Unlike Benedict XVI, who declined to meet survivors during his 2008 visit, Leo has scheduled a meeting with seven of them — five of whom have made their names public. The survivors have set clear terms: "Dialogue does not mean approval. Being received does not mean giving up our demands."

This visit is the largest papal gathering France has seen in nearly two decades, arriving as Europe's share of global Catholicism has fallen from two-thirds in 1900 to roughly 20 percent today. Across 15 speeches and homilies, Leo will test whether the Church can still speak meaningfully to a secular society — and whether Europe, adrift between its past and an uncertain future, is still listening.

France is experiencing what observers are calling "Pope fever"—a phenomenon that would have seemed unlikely just a generation ago in a country that formally separated church and state in 1905 and has built its modern identity on secular foundations. Yet over the next four days, Pope Leo XIV will move through Paris, Lourdes, and Metz to crowds that organizers expect will exceed one million people, a turnout that speaks to something more complicated than simple religious devotion.

The numbers alone signal the scale of the moment. Around 600,000 ticketed attendees will line the Champs-Élysées on Saturday, stretching all the way to the Arc de Triomphe, for an open-air mass at the Place de la Concorde. Authorities have already begun closing metro stations and draping churches across the city with papal portraits and Vatican flags. Security forces are preparing for what amounts to a major civic mobilization in a nation where such religious public spectacle has been deliberately muted for more than a century.

Political scientist Olivier Roy offers a key insight into why a pope commands this kind of attention in secular France: Leo XIV has cultivated a moral authority that extends well beyond the Catholic faithful. His conflicts with US President Donald Trump, in particular, have given him standing among people who may not believe in God but who respect his willingness to challenge power. The pope has become, in a sense, a figure of principle in a moment when many Europeans feel adrift. Roy notes that Leo occupies middle ground between his predecessors—John Paul II, who saw Christianity as fundamentally European, and Francis, who oriented the Church toward the Global South. Leo affirms the Church's universality while still recognizing Europe's weight within it.

The timing of the visit, however, introduces political friction. France's presidential election is just over six months away, and the state's prominent role in organizing the papal reception has created discomfort across the political spectrum. The left appreciates Leo's personality but worries about the blurring of church-state boundaries. The far right welcomes the visibility of Catholicism but has objected to an interfaith meeting planned in Metz, viewing it as placing Islam on equal footing with Christianity. The French president himself cannot attend the large public masses because of the constitutional separation of church and state—a constraint that underscores how much has changed, and how much remains contested, in France's relationship with religion.

The choice of Metz for Leo's final address carries symbolic weight. Once a center of the Carolingian Empire, the city has shifted between German and French control multiple times across the centuries. The pope will speak at the Robert Schuman Convention Center, named for the Luxembourg-born French statesman who championed Franco-German reconciliation after World War II and became the first president of the European Parliament. Leo's scheduled speech, titled "To the roots of Europe for peace and unity," will be introduced by President Emmanuel Macron and is expected to articulate the pope's vision for a Europe that transcends nationalism. Roy will be watching closely to see whether Leo openly criticizes populism and nationalism, and whether he addresses the rise of nationalist Catholicism in France—a movement whose defenders sometimes align with far-right circles and traditionalist Latin Mass communities.

The Church's reckoning with its own history will also be on display. Unlike Pope Benedict XVI's 2008 visit to France, when he declined to meet with survivors of sexual abuse in the Church, Leo has scheduled such a meeting in Lourdes. Seven survivors will participate, and five have already made their names public—a significant shift from the past, when access to the Vatican sometimes seemed to come with an implicit expectation of silence. The survivors have been clear about the terms of their engagement: "Dialogue does not mean approval. Being received does not mean giving up our demands." The issue will likely remain a persistent challenge for the Catholic Church in France and beyond.

This visit marks the largest papal crowd France has seen since Benedict XVI drew smaller numbers in 2008. It arrives at a moment when Europe's Catholic population has shrunk dramatically—from more than two-thirds of all Catholics in 1900 to roughly 20 percent today—yet the Church continues to view Europe as its most important political reference point. Leo's four days in France, during which he will deliver 15 speeches and homilies, will test whether the pope can speak meaningfully to a secular society while also strengthening the bonds among Europe's remaining faithful. The streets of Paris on Saturday will offer one answer; his words in Metz on the final day may offer another.

The pope is popular among both believers and nonbelievers. Leo's conflict with US President Donald Trump in particular has lent him a moral standing that extends far beyond the Catholic Church.
— Olivier Roy, political scientist
Europe is a real entity that must be sustained and developed beyond nationalism. That has always been the message of the Catholic Church since World War II. It is Schuman's message.
— Olivier Roy, on Pope Leo's expected framing
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