Every so often, the moon slides between the Earth and the sun, and somewhere on the planet a small group of devoted travelers has already booked their flights. Stephen Bedingfield of Yellowknife is one of them — a man who has spent more than two decades following darkness across continents, drawn by what he calls the greatest spectacle the solar system can offer. This week he stands in Spain for his 13th total eclipse, while Canadians at home are invited to look up safely and witness, in partial form, the same ancient alignment of worlds.