Gel nails and UV lamps: Study raises cancer concerns, but experts urge caution

A new study has raised questions about the safety of gel manicures, the cosmetic treatment millions of people get regularly without much thought about what happens under those ultraviolet lamps. Researchers exposed human and mouse cells to radiation from the kind of UV lamp used in nail salons and found something troubling: about 30 percent of the cells died after just 20 minutes of exposure. Among those that survived, many showed damage to their DNA in patterns that resembled what researchers see in melanoma, a potentially fatal form of skin cancer. The study, published in Nature Communications, has prompted dermatologists to revisit what they know—and don't know—about the long-term effects of this routine beauty treatment.

The appeal of gel nails is straightforward. They last for weeks without chipping or peeling, which is why they've become so popular. The UV light is essential to the process; it hardens the gel and makes the manicure durable. Some salons use LED lights instead, but dermatologists say these also emit significant UV radiation. The new findings add to a small but growing body of research suggesting that regular exposure to these lamps might accelerate skin aging and increase cancer risk. Yet experts are careful to distinguish between what the lab study shows and what it actually proves about real people.

Maria Zhivagui, a co-author of the study and a postdoctoral researcher in cancer genomics and public health at the University of California, San Diego, acknowledges that while the cellular damage is concerning, the research does not establish that UV nail lamps cause cancer. There's an important difference between what happens to isolated cells in a petri dish and what happens to skin on a living hand. Human skin has a thick outer layer of dead cells that acts as a protective barrier, something lab cells lack. Chris Adigun, a dermatologist in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, points out another crucial gap: no major epidemiological study has yet compared skin cancer rates between people who regularly get gel manicures and those who don't. There have been case reports of people diagnosed with skin cancer after years of gel manicures, but it remains unclear whether the manicures actually caused the cancer. "We don't have a way to quantify the risk," Adigun says.

Despite this uncertainty, dermatologists agree that UV light damages skin cells and that precautions are worth taking. Adigun recommends UV-blocking gloves—the fingerless kind—as a straightforward protective measure. She advises against sunscreen, which protects against UV radiation from the sun but not from nail lamps. For those concerned about infection risk, she emphasizes protecting the cuticles, which form a critical barrier against bacteria. Many people assume salon equipment is the source of nail infections, but Adigun says infections are more likely to occur after cuticles are removed, allowing germs from the person's own skin to enter. She recommends asking manicurists to trim and file nails but leave the cuticles alone.

Dip powder nails offer an alternative that typically doesn't require UV exposure. The process involves dipping nails into acrylic powder after applying a base coat, and the result lasts just as long as gel. However, some manicurists add a final gel layer for extra durability, which means using a UV lamp anyway. There's also a hygiene concern: manicurists often use the same pot of powder for multiple clients, raising the possibility of contamination. Lyndsay Shipp, a dermatologist in Oxford, Mississippi, notes that acetone used to clean nails at the start of a session acts as a disinfectant, reducing contamination risk. Adigun, who has specialized in nail problems for over 16 years, says she has never encountered a case of infection from dip powder manicures, suggesting the risk is extremely rare.

For those who continue getting gel manicures, several practical steps can reduce risk. Shipp recommends asking manicurists to file and polish nails lightly rather than aggressively, since heavy filing weakens nails and makes them more fragile. Thick layers of polish can also weaken nails, so thinner applications are preferable. If choosing dip powder, skipping the final gel layer eliminates UV exposure entirely. And choosing a salon that takes sterilization seriously matters: ask whether equipment is reused and, if so, how it's sterilized between clients. Autoclaves or dry-heat sterilizers are the standard. Some people bring their own files, buffers, and polishers to avoid shared tools. Adigun emphasizes that gel and dip powder manicures don't need to be a source of anxiety. "You just need to be well informed so you can go in and get your nails done without worry," she says.