EU bans key gel nail ingredient over health concerns; experts detail six potential injuries

In 2017, C. Tangana released a trap song that perfectly captured the moment: "Bad woman, bad woman. Your gel nails have left scars all over my body." It was a throwaway line, but it landed at exactly the right cultural moment. Bad Gyal was ascending with her signature maxi nails. Rosalía was sharpening hers. Gel manicures—the semi-permanent kind—were about to explode across Spain, eventually claiming nearly 60 percent of all nail services in the country. More than 9 million women would use them regularly. Over 40 million treatments would happen each year. The style transcended subcultures: trap girls got their dramatic claws, while the wealthier set adapted the technique with neutral tones and French-tip variations. Gel nails became the defining beauty mark of a decade.

Then, on September 1, 2025, the European Union banned one of the key ingredients that made them possible.

The substance is called TPO—trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide. It's what gives gel polish that ultra-glossy shine and allows it to dry in seconds under UV or LED light. But animal testing has raised red flags about its effects on the endocrine system and fertility. As a precaution, the EU decided the risk was real enough to prohibit it outright. The ban applies across the bloc, and it applies now.

Gel manicures arrived in Spain during the 2010s, imported from American companies like CND with their "Shellac" line. They spread quickly through salons and into home kits because they offered something traditional polish couldn't: durability and shine that lasted weeks instead of days. The difference is technical but significant. A classic manicure dries in air. A gel manicure cures under a lamp. That curing process, powered by chemicals like TPO, is what made the whole thing work.

Experts have been warning about the health consequences for years. Virginia Martínez, who teaches hand and nail care courses, explains that contact dermatitis from acrylic monomers—TPO among them—is not uncommon. It shows up as redness, flaking, and intense itching around the nail and finger. The Valencia Podiatry Association has documented a longer list: nail weakening, dermatitis, eczema, infections like paronychia. Jorge Escoto, a podiatrist and board member of the association, is blunt about what happens with continuous use. "The nail doesn't breathe. It doesn't regenerate. It becomes more porous. It weakens. It becomes a gateway for toxins and pathogens to enter the bloodstream."

The association has catalogued six specific injuries. First: progressive weakening of the nail after repeated gel applications. Second: breakage, because filing the nail to make the polish adhere thins it out and makes it fragile. Third: discoloration—yellowing or white spots from damage to the nail plate itself. Fourth: fungal and bacterial infections, because the polish layer creates a humid environment where microbes thrive, especially in summer when feet spend time in wet environments and the polish hides the problem until it's serious. Fifth: paronyquia, an infection of the tissue around the nail caused by irritation or injury from the polish itself, leading to pain, redness, swelling, and pus. Sixth: dermatitis and eczema from acrylates and other components, which can spread beyond the contact area through transfer to other parts of the body. In severe cases, continuous use can trigger psoriasiform nail dystrophy—a condition that alters the shape, color, texture, and growth of nails.

But here's what matters: the ban doesn't mean gel manicures are finished. Manufacturers simply have to reformulate without TPO. Many already have. Martínez points out that some brands now offer "TPO-free" or "HEMA-free" alternatives using ingredients like BAPO (bis-acylphosphine oxide). If you're going to get a gel manicure, she recommends looking for products with CE marking, complete ingredient labeling (INCI), manufacturer registration in the EU's Cosmetic Products Notification Portal, and explicit labeling stating the product is TPO-free or HEMA-free. "If the technician's technique and the products are appropriate, the manicure doesn't have to damage the nail," Martínez says. She emphasizes that the recommended one-week rest between applications usually becomes necessary because of excessive filing, poor removal technique, clients picking at the polish, or acetone exposure that dehydrates nails. Done properly, nails stay healthy and strong.

For those who prefer traditional polish, there are ways to make it last. Don't use your nails as tools. Wear gloves when you need to. Eat well—biotin, iron, zinc, protein matter. Hydrate your cuticles regularly with natural oils, massaged in gently. Once a week or every two weeks, apply a homemade mask of olive oil and lemon. The podiatry association stresses that consultation before and after gel application is essential. Healing a damaged nail isn't quick. It takes time, patience, and professional care.